The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through
Wales
by Geraldus Cambrensis
Book I
Chapter X
Tywy river - Caermardyn - monastery of
Albelande
Having crossed the river Tywy in a boat, we proceeded
towards Caermardyn, leaving Lanstephan and Talachar97
on the sea-coast to our left. After the death of king Henry
II., Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, took these two castles by
assault; then, having laid waste, by fire and sword, the
provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he besieged Caermardyn, but
failed in his attempt. Caermardyn98
signifies the city of Merlin, because, according to the
British History, he was there said to have been begotten of
an incubus.
This ancient city is situated on the
banks of the noble river Tywy, surrounded by woods and
pastures, and was strongly inclosed with walls of brick,
part of which are still standing; having Cantref Mawr, the
great cantred, or hundred, on the eastern side, a safe
refuge, in times of danger, to the inhabitants of South
Wales, on account of its thick woods; where is also the
castle of Dinevor,99
built on a lofty summit above the Tywy, the royal seat of
the princes of South Wales. In ancient times, there were
three regal palaces in Wales: Dinevor in South Wales,
Aberfrau in North Wales, situated in Anglesea, and Pengwern
in Powys, now called Shrewsbury (Slopesburia); Pengwern
signifies the head of a grove of alders. Recalling to mind
those poetical passages:
"Dolus an virtus quis in hoste requirat?"
and
"Et si non recte possis quocunque modo rem,"
my pen shrinks with abhorrence from
the relation of the enormous vengeance exercised by the
court against its vassals, within the comot of Caeo, in the
Cantref Mawr. Near Dinevor, on the other side of the river
Tywy, in the Cantref Bychan, or the little cantred, there is
a spring which, like the tide, ebbs and flows twice in
twenty-four hours.100
Not far to the north of Caermardyn, namely at
Pencadair,101
that is, the head of the chair, when Rhys, the son of
Gruffydd, was more by stratagem than force compelled to
surrender, and was carried away into England, king Henry II.
despatched a knight, born in Britany, on whose wisdom and
fidelity he could rely, under the conduct of Guaidanus, dean
of Cantref Mawr, to explore the situation of Dinevor castle,
and the strength of the country. The priest, being desired
to take the knight by the easiest and best road to the
castle, led him purposely aside by the most difficult and
inaccessible paths, and wherever they passed through woods,
the priest, to the general surprise of all present, fed upon
grass, asserting that, in times of need, the inhabitants of
that country were accustomed to live upon herbs and roots.
The knight returning to the king, and relating what had
happened, affirmed that the country was uninhabitable, vile,
and inaccessible, and only affording food to a beastly
nation, living like brutes. At length the king released
Rhys, having first bound him to fealty by solemn oaths and
the delivery of hostages.
On our journey from Caermardyn
towards the Cistercian monastery called Alba Domus,102
the archbishop was informed of the murder of a young
Welshman, who was devoutly hastening to meet him; when
turning out of the road, he ordered the corpse to be covered
with the cloak of his almoner, and with a pious supplication
commended the soul of the murdered youth to heaven. Twelve
archers of the adjacent castle of St. Clare,103
who had assassinated the young man, were on the following
day signed with the cross at Alba Domus, as a punishment for
their crime. Having traversed three rivers, the Taf, then
the Cleddeu, under Lanwadein,104
and afterwards another branch of the same river, we at
length arrived at Haverford. This province, from its
situation between two rivers, has acquired the name of
Daugleddeu,105
being enclosed and terminated, as it were, by two swords,
for cleddue, in the British language, signifies a sword.
The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through
Wales
by Geraldus Cambrensis
Chapter IX
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