The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through
Wales
by Geraldus Cambrensis
Book II
Chapter XI
Of the passage of the River Dee, and of
Chester
Having crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the
Welsh call Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the
day of absolution (holy Thursday), we reached Chester. As
the river Wye towards the south separates Wales from
England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern
boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the
waters of this river change their fords every month, and, as
it inclines more towards England or Wales, they can, with
certainty, prognosticate which nation will be successful or
unfortunate during the year. This river derives its origin
from the lake Penmelesmere,182
and, although it abounds with salmon, yet none are found in
the lake. It is also remarkable, that this river is never
swollen by rains, but often rises by the violence of the
winds.
Chester boasts of being the
burial-place of Henry,183
a Roman emperor, who, after having imprisoned his carnal and
spiritual father, pope Paschal, gave himself up to
penitence; and, becoming a voluntary exile in this country,
ended his days in solitary retirement. It is also asserted,
that the remains of Harold are here deposited. He was the
last of the Saxon kings in England, and as a punishment for
his perjury, was defeated in the battle of Hastings, fought
against the Normans. Having received many wounds, and lost
his left eye by an arrow in that engagement, he is said to
have escaped to these parts, where, in holy conversation,
leading the life of an anchorite, and being a constant
attendant at one of the churches of this city, he is
believed to have terminated his days happily.184
The truth of these two circumstances was declared (and not
before known) by the dying confession of each party. We saw
here, what appeared novel to us, cheese made of deer's milk;
for the countess and her mother keeping tame deer, presented
to the archbishop three small cheeses made from their
milk.
In this same country was produced, in our time, a cow
partaking of the nature of a stag, resembling its mother in
the fore parts and the stag in its hips, legs, and feet, and
having the skin and colour of the stag; but, partaking more
of the nature of the domestic than of the wild animal, it
remained with the herd of cattle. A bitch also was pregnant
by a monkey, and produced a litter of whelps resembling a
monkey before, and the dog behind; which the rustic keeper
of the military hall seeing with astonishment and
abhorrence, immediately killed with the stick he carried in
his hand; thereby incurring the severe resentment and anger
of his lord, when the latter became acquainted with the
circumstance.
In our time, also, a woman was born in Chester without
hands, to whom nature had supplied a remedy for that defect
by the flexibility and delicacy of the joints of her feet,
with which she could sew, or perform any work with thread or
scissors, as well as other women.
The Itinerary of Archbishop Baldwin through
Wales
by Geraldus Cambrensis
Chapter X
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