The era known as "Late Antiquity" extends from about the third through the seventh century C.E., and refers primarily to the Western Roman Empire in its decline and the transformation of that entity into early medieval Europe. As the Romans interacted with the migratory peoples who pressed on the borders of the empire and settled within its confines (who the Romans called "Barbarians"), their clothing styles gradually incorporated Barbarian elements. In their turn, Barbarian clothing styles were influenced by imperial Roman attire.1
Very few Roman garments from this era have been preserved through the centuries. However, individual garments and clothing styles are mentioned in a variety of contemporary sources. By carefully examining and evaluating historical chronicles, literature and statuary, costume historians have been able to determine the most common and likely outfits worn in the waning centuries of the Roman Empire and the turbulent years that followed.
By contrast, peat bogs in northern Europe and Britain have preserved some clothing in remarkable condition for thousands of years. With the help of some contemporary descriptions (such as the Germania by Tacitus), scholars have used this material evidence to determine the clothing that was most likely worn by early northern Europeans.
Traditional Roman Fashion
Roman clothing in the first few centuries C. E. was very simply designed and not tailored or even sewn much at all. Many items were woven into the shape they would take, instead of being cut or sewn, and were often a single square or semicircular piece. Garments were, however, folded ingeniously (sometimes very intricately, indeed) and occasionally tied or held together with decorative pins (such as the fibula). For the most part, Roman clothes were made in one size for adults and one size for children; each individual would fit a garment to himself by cinching it with a belt or folding it appropriately.
Most often made from wool (which could be very finely woven), Roman clothes were sometimes made from linen or, for the wealthier, cotton or silk. They were usually not dyed, although, among the affluent, designs would sometimes be woven into the fabric with colored thread. Thus, most of their clothing was fairly light in color.
Romans liked clothes that draped loosely, offering freedom of movement. Except for soldiers, who wore helmets (sometimes with caps underneath), Romans seldom wore hats. Traditional dress did not include tight-fitting sleeves or leggings; but then, inhabitants of the empire enjoyed the temperate climes of the Mediterranean, where freezing temperatures were rare.
Barbarian Style
In the harsher climates north of Rome, leggings and sleeves had been part of Barbarian clothing for millennia. In fact, discoveries in peat bogs in northern Europe include such items as trousers and fitted bodices from as far back as the Bronze Age. Felt caps were also preserved.
Made from coarsely woven wool or flax, felt, hemp, leather, animal pelts and even nettle fiber, Barbarian styles were designed to provide protection from the elements and suited the active life of hunters and horsemen. Although simple mantles and other loose garments were incorporated into their dress, their clothing was often carefully tailored to its wearer. Barbarians also used wool when they could, because of its warmth and resistance to water.
Furs, leather, and even some of the wool used by the Germans and Celts in northern Europe were altogether somewhat darker in color than the typical Roman outfit.
Post-Classical Synthesis
Roman rules regarding clothing began to be generally less strict in the late third century. By the time the western Roman Empire "officially" came to an end in 476, the people who inhabited the former empire and their neighbors wore a variety of clothing based on both traditional Roman dress and practical Barbarian elements. Styles from the orient also influenced Late Antique dress. However, this synthesis of styles was a long, slow process that, in some cases, took centuries.
Soldiers assigned to the northern territories were likely the first Romans to incorporate leggings into their attire. This was a very practical step, and as a fashion it started to spread through Rome. However, as Barbarian tribes encroached on Roman territory in the waning empire, the idea of wearing the clothing styles of the "invaders" did not sit well with the establishment. Sumptuary laws were even passed to prohibit the wearing of trousers, but they didn't work. By the fifth century, even emperors were wearing trousers with their togas.
Initially, fitted sleeves were considered too feminine for the manly Roman male. This viewpoint faded as the fitted sleeve proved comfortable and protective in the colder northern territories.
Often made from the dark wool of Iberian sheep, the Celtic cloak known as the lacerna was initially ridiculed and even banned from the city of Rome; but its warmth and practicality eventually helped it become one of the most popular clothing items of the later Roman empire.
Continued on page two: Outfits
